I don't get them either.
Have sent a PM with email address twice to Rick.
Last one was about a week ago.

Steve

Here's a link:

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/newsletters/September_2011.html

Guys, the emails go out, but they can get caught in spamtraps or blacklists. You might check for the old ones there.

Once again, many thanks Rick.

I've resigned myself to have to get JB's article through a link.

Steve

John,

Wouldn't those non AO scopes like Burris Fullfield 3-9x40mm scopes that have the ballistic plex also have some parallx problems as well? Enough to effect their accuracy at those distances of the plexes?

Usually not--though any scope of that general size should be tested at max magnification for parallax. I've seen some that were practically without parallax and some that had quite a bit.

I wonder what magnification he used? http://www.dagbladet.no/2011/10/08/nyheter/jakt/innenriks/hjort/skudd/18508210/

For the first shot, probably just poking the rifle at the hjort!

Great article by John and good practical advise per usual.

Would add,on the target subject. I carry those flourescent orange stick-on circles that come in various sizes from 1/2" to 6",and vary them according to scope power, reticle and distance. For example, I use the 1" size against a black background with a 4X scope at 100 yards; a 3" size with a 4X at 200-300 yards,etc.

The reticle contrasts nicely against the bright orange, yet forces you to "hold small" with the 4X,which results in some pretty tight groups.

I have found the 6" dot does well with a 6X scope clear to 600 yards for me.So I use it at 400-500-and 600 yards.

It is wise not to have the dot too big for the power and reticle because you will then start floating around the dot,your aiming point not being as precise,which will affect group size.

These dots also help you see parallax very easily when it exists at a distance as the movement of that orange dot becomes very apparent,forcing you to move your eyeball to the center of the scope for a consistent sight picture.

If you can't find the diamond targets, these dots are a good substitute.

I am not surprised at the smallish groups with the 4X scope.

BobinNH,
I tried some of the small dots after reading your forum comment. It really forced me to shoot carefully and "small".
Thanks for the tip. Most all my scopes are now fixed power.

You mention most higher power variable scopes having some means of correcting parallax. More and more I'm seeing new scopes with higher magnification have "side-focus" vs. the old "adjustable objective" How do these two corrective aids function in a scope, and are they the same thing, but with the adjustment placed in a different spot on the scope? I had my BIL out this weekend to do load development with a new-to-him .243 Win. M70 XTR. He brought along a brand-new Nikon Monarch 4-16x42SF and it was the darkest scope I've looked through in years. I made sure the side-focus was "set" at 100 yds, but my older Nikon Monarch UCC 6.5-20x44AO is a MUCH brighter scope. Does side-focus influence that in any way, or was this just an example of current production Nikons? I have a current production Nikon Monarch 2.5-10x42 that is one of the brightest scopes I've looked through...but no parallax adjustment. Is there a relationship?