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I have an Encore with a factory 22-250 heavy barrel that is giving me fits. It will shoot a 3 shot group under 1 inch then shoot the next group at a completely different point on the target or the same point with a 4 to 5 inch high flier or ? (you never know). It does this with all bullet weights from 40 grain up to the 55's I have tried as well as several different powders. Has anyone cured this with the oversize hingepins bellm offers? I am also thinking about trying a pillar bedded forend. I have also tried just neck sizeing with a Lee collet die and full length sizeing with the same results.I dont think its the barrel it will occasionaly shoot a good group but I could be wrong.
I would call TC before I did any changes.

Assume you have checked mount/rings and tried a different scope that has proven consistent on another rifle?
Sounds an awful lot like a scope/mount problem, that would be the first direction I'd go in as well. If that doesn't do it look over mike bellm's website for ideas. Let us know how you make out.
The Bellm hinge pin will help eliminate the "Torque" on the frame when it is fired. I would suggest you install one.

Free floating the forearm will help but I think you have a bullet seating issue. As you change bullets weights you are also changing the the "over all" length of the loaded round. The T/C chambers seem to prefer the bullets KISSING the lands.

Try this on your present forearm. Remove the plasic around the rabbit ears or the extension that covers the hinge pin enough to slide a business card between the frame and forearm extension.

The last barrel support closest to the rabbit ears inside the plastic forearm needs to be removed with a dremmel tool. Generally the forearm will rock back and forth on the barrel and "NOT" flat which is what it should do. Removing the last barrel support will enable the forarm to lay flat. You don't have to remove all of the last barrel support just knock down the height of it.

Now just tighten the front forend screw tight and back off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.

Go shoot.

Doc

Originally Posted by oldman1942
I would call TC before I did any changes.

Assume you have checked mount/rings and tried a different scope that has proven consistent on another rifle?


Positive it is not the scope it works well on other rifles and I have checked the mount it is tight.
Originally Posted by Doctor_Encore
The Bellm hinge pin will help eliminate the "Torque" on the frame when it is fired. I would suggest you install one.

Free floating the forearm will help but I think you have a bullet seating issue. As you change bullets weights you are also changing the the "over all" length of the loaded round. The T/C chambers seem to prefer the bullets KISSING the lands.

Try this on your present forearm. Remove the plasic around the rabbit ears or the extension that covers the hinge pin enough to slide a business card between the frame and forearm extension.

The last barrel support closest to the rabbit ears inside the plastic forearm needs to be removed with a dremmel tool. Generally the forearm will rock back and forth on the barrel and "NOT" flat which is what it should do. Removing the last barrel support will enable the forarm to lay flat. You don't have to remove all of the last barrel support just knock down the height of it.

Now just tighten the front forend screw tight and back off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.

Go shoot.

Doc


Doc,

I have the walnut stock but I will definately remove some wood from the ears to provide clearance from the frame. I have been using the Hornady COAL tool with each bullet I try and seating .010 and .020 off the lands.I will make up a new batch of loads and start with the bullets touching the lands and back off .010 at a time and see what happens.Thanks for the advice I will give an update on what happens.
28lx,

Since you have the walnut forearm be sure to place electric tape around the edges of the rabbit ears to protect the outside finish as you remove the wood.

I will send you a synthetic forearm that I have modified to try if you want.

Doc

Originally Posted by Doctor_Encore
The Bellm hinge pin will help eliminate the "Torque" on the frame when it is fired. I would suggest you install one.

Free floating the forearm will help but I think you have a bullet seating issue. As you change bullets weights you are also changing the the "over all" length of the loaded round. The T/C chambers seem to prefer the bullets KISSING the lands.

Try this on your present forearm. Remove the plasic around the rabbit ears or the extension that covers the hinge pin enough to slide a business card between the frame and forearm extension.

The last barrel support closest to the rabbit ears inside the plastic forearm needs to be removed with a dremmel tool. Generally the forearm will rock back and forth on the barrel and "NOT" flat which is what it should do. Removing the last barrel support will enable the forarm to lay flat. You don't have to remove all of the last barrel support just knock down the height of it.

Now just tighten the front forend screw tight and back off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.

Go shoot.

Doc


I am only guessing but it sounds to me like the man has a scope/mount/ring issue. And maybe something as simple as how the gun is rested. While I personally don't believe you can float a TC foreend I do know how I eliminated any issues with mine. I bedded my foreends between mounting holes to the barrel. It not only works very well it allows for changing barrels, using the same foreend and no change in POI. The ears are cleaned up for clearance and the screws are torqued, not tightened and loosened. The bedding job i do leaves an even .003" clearance in all but the bedded spots on either ends of the mounting screws and in between. It works very well and far more solid for use with a sling/bipod than either pillar bedding or hanger bar.
While I am not a devout believer in the oversize hinge pins I haven't ever needed one so I cannot speak to that. It would be my last resort if I were having to chase accuracy in a TC. But hey I've only been working with TCs since '79...
Try this first. I have seen it work many times.

The biggest problem with the Encore is the connection between the forearm and the barrel. We all know that. So you need to take special precautions when shooting an Encore off the bench. How and where you place your forearm on the front tripod can drastically effect the group size and POI. Try placing your rifle on the front tripod in the exact same spot every time. Also try to mate the rifle to the tripod as far back on the rifle as possible. I shoot mine very close to the receiver. It makes the rifle front heavy on the tripod, but group size willl amazingly shrink. Try it. Tom.
HOGGHEAD took some of my suggestions. I'll admit it, I've pretty much bought into most of Bellm's "tricks". I use an oversize hinge pin - group sizes shrank. I sand out the ear for no contact, not a whole lot of change. I think another important key is setting your headspace properly, which will in turn affect the distance from the lands. Bellm sells a gizmo to help do this properly. I use it. The end result is that with my 26" 6PPC barrel I can consistently run groups into the .2s and .3s with a wide variety of bullets and weights, as long as I do my part. As far as bench technique is concerned, HOGGHEAD nailed it, keep the forend rested near to the frame. I didn't pillar bed my factory forend, I used copper washers to float the barrel, but I do have a pillar bedded forend. I actually prefer shooting the factory one with the washers, I can't tell a difference in group size between the two.

HoggHead and selmer thank you. I will try your suggestions also.
Take a look here if you don't want to make all those adjustments.

www.tonysforendsandgrips.net

I tried it & I liked it.
Keep in mind that the over size pin will void your warranty. If its a problem make TC take care of it.
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