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I replaced the pin with a blob of devcon, those scope rings are not moving unless I want them to.

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Originally Posted by Castle_Rock
I replaced the pin with a blob of devcon, those scope rings are not moving unless I want them to.



That’ll do it too.

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Originally Posted by Castle_Rock
I replaced the pin with a blob of devcon, those scope rings are not moving unless I want them to.



I did just that when I put the Talley's on my recently purchased Tikka rifle. By bedding the bases in Devcon, with release agent on the action. I have mounts that should not move.

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Assuming the top of the receiver has enough room, I wouldn't be afraid to add another hole forward of the existing hole(s)... for the Sportsmatch. Or enlarge an existing forward threaded hole, for better ring spacing.

That said, with those sturdy clamp fasteners I bet it's plenty strong with a recoil pin in the aft ring. I used Warne rings with just one recoil pin, and it was never an issue on my T3 magnums.

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I ended up with Leupold dual dovetails on both of mine and super low rings for 44mm scopes

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Originally Posted by Formidilosus
Originally Posted by Castle_Rock
I replaced the pin with a blob of devcon, those scope rings are not moving unless I want them to.



That’ll do it too.

It is even easier now with the T3X
There is a hole for a 3mm dowel in the right place for the rear mount position [Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

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Vertically split rings fail on multiple levels.


Sportsmatch or pic base/rings.

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Originally Posted by Formidilosus
We have multiple sets of the Sportsmatch one piece rings now. Sportsmatch made the original mounting system for the Accuracy International sniper weapon system. In case you don’t know- that means they were really durable.


They have done really well with zero retention. You do give up a bit of ring spacing on the front over a pic rail/ring combo, but you get extremely low mounting, solid lockup with a recoil pin.



[Linked Image]



Form,

any preference or difference between Sportmatch compared to Spuhr or Nightforce steel rings?

The one Spuhr I own has really impressed me. The leveling cut and tool are handy as is the built in bubble level. NF steel rings have been my go for durability and reliability, but the Spuhr appears to be its equal so far, but weighs less.

NF ultralights have allowed the scope to slip on a couple of occasions on a light 300 Win Mag, so went back to the NF steel rings as the default choice.

Always interested in your feedback.


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jeffbird,

For regular hunting I prefer the Sportsmatch as they are significantly lower and the resulting cheekweld is better. For distance angled pic rail and rings are the choice of course. Have used Spuhr quite a bit and they are good rings, however I can’t say I’ve seen a measurable benefit over good pic rings.


As long as everything is degreased, loctited, and torqued correctly I haven’t had any issues with slippage and NF UL’s even on 7lb 300 and 375RUM’s.

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These.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]






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Originally Posted by Castle_Rock
It is even easier now with the T3X
There is a hole for a 3mm dowel in the right place for the rear mount position [Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Apologies in advance for the cell phone pics.

I gave this a go this evening, but I couldn’t get a nice lug like CR’s out of the JB Weld SteelStik that I had laying around. I tried rolling it between my fingers which was just a freaking joke, looked like a 5 year old playing with Play-Doh. The second attempt was just packing it down with punches while it was hardening. This would have worked but it was still looser than I wanted.

[Linked Image]

So a few beers later, out came the Craftsman cordless drill. Drilled the hole out to 5/32” (which is a little undersized to allow for a super tight fit).

[Linked Image]

I then pushed the lug up flush with the bottom of the base, mounted it to the receiver (just eyeballing lug alignment overtop the enlarged hole, and used a 5/32” punch to push the lug down into the enlarged hole.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

I was off just a hair off center when boring the old hole out and it was a tight fit to get everything lined up. But for the lack of a drill press and having done this at 1:00 A.M. in my kitchen with hand tools I think it went ok.

A WORD OF CAUTION:

In reference to his devcon modification, CR had this to say:

Originally Posted by Castle_Rock
I replaced the pin with a blob of devcon, those scope rings are not moving unless I want them to.


Well this scope mount isn’t coming off EVEN IF I WANT IT TO. Since I didn’t want to drill all of the way through the receiver, I’ll have to drill the lug out or use a stripped bolt remover to remove it without damaging the mount.

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My solution to the ring spacing is to use an old scope base screw in front of the rear ring. then I slide the rear ring forward and butt it up to this screw. It becomes a pin, but in front of the ring, rather than through the middle. And then I mount the front ring snug, to where I can barely slide it back and forth, then slide it all the way forward until it butts up against where the dovetail tapers up in size. Then torque everything tight.

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I switched from Talleys to a rail/rings combo when I got my 6x42.

Area 419 20moa rail and Badger low rings. Doesn’t get much higher quality than this. The rail is extremely thin and comes with a recoil dowel to fit in the Tikka slot. Badger’s require no further explanation.

[Linked Image]


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Originally Posted by Jwood1284
I switched from Talleys to a rail/rings combo when I got my 6x42.

Area 419 20moa rail and Badger low rings. Doesn’t get much higher quality than this. The rail is extremely thin and comes with a recoil dowel to fit in the Tikka slot. Badger’s require no further explanation.

[Linked Image]


I ordered the area 419 rail after reading your review, it’s an impressive rail. I went with nightforce ultralight low rings. The rail is nice and low, a real upgrade from some other rails I’ve used.

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