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I use the silky f180 but am open to other suggestions. It's multi purpose for wood and for skull plates but the size of the teeth make it more ideal for wood. You'll get a good workout on a moose getting the skull plate off, but it beats packing the head out. It goes through deer skulls rather easily. I might look for a silky with finer teeth.

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Originally Posted by T_Inman
I don’t think folks are referring to separating the ball joint….they’re referring to separating the lower and upper rear legs by cutting through the joint immediately beneath the ‘heel’ or what most people think of as the ‘knee’.

I may try the Havalon saw the next time I do need a saw for something, as it does look handy.


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Originally Posted by longarm
Originally Posted by T_Inman
I don’t think folks are referring to separating the ball joint….they’re referring to separating the lower and upper rear legs by cutting through the joint immediately beneath the ‘heel’ or what most people think of as the ‘knee’.

I may try the Havalon saw the next time I do need a saw for something, as it does look handy.


Exactamundo.

Havolon makes the large frame folder in a 2 blade version. It takes the small blade on one side and the large blade (which can be the saw blade) on the other.

I modified one to take 2 large blades as I much prefer the bigger Havolon knife blade.

It's a pretty handy setup having a saw and large blade in one folder.

For backpacking the lower weight option is the single blade large frame with knife blades and one saw blade.


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I have the folding outdoor edge bone saw and it works great. I use it primarily for the sternum on elk, or sometimes it makes it easier on big bucks too.

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I have a Wyoming Saw that is 40 years old that I carry in a bag in the truck.I cut through the joints with a knife. But I do saw the antlers off of bucks. I have bought 1 set of replacement blades for it in 40 years. It is good gear.

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I like one for cutting up through the brisket on even a deer, sure you can use a knife, but a small hatchet or saw is the way I go now.

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Fiskars Power Tooth is what I currently use. I think it works plenty well enough.

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Old Gerber folding saw stays in my pack. Handles any game work needed and is a good emergency tool.


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I'm spoiled in that we use a bone saw to drop the guts while we're waiting for a machine to drag it out. We use a saw to split the pelvis and brisket. I will have to look for the Coghlans saw you shared. My only experience with the brand is from the cheap camping section. While their saw blades are very thin they are extremely sharp. One is always in my pack now, hopefully what you shared is a more durable model.


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If you go Silky make sure you purchase a finer tooth profile. The Bacho Laplander is less money and a tougher blade than Silky. Keep blade toughness as priority and for $19 for the orange version it's hard to beat.

After you've used your small folding saw on legs or skull plate take and cut some brush or prune some sapling or branches on trees to clean your blade then wash it. This helps clean it without folding and packing that gunk home.

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I just can't find the saw that I own on the Internet. It's a Gerber Gator saw. But I can't find it anywhere on the Internet. It has just one fixed blade (not folding). It's a wide blade with wood saw teeth on one side and a bone saw on the other side. Tapered, so (with a little imagination) it looks like the head of an alligator. Pretty lightweight for a saw with such a big blade.

I don't usually saw cut bone. I slit the joints like mentioned above. But one time I cut through the skull plate of a moose. That took myself and a friend half an hour, trading off, to get the job done.


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Originally Posted by Theoldpinecricker
After you've used your small folding saw on legs or skull plate take and cut some brush or prune some sapling or branches on trees to clean your blade then wash it. This helps clean it without folding and packing that gunk home.

A little brain splooge never hurt anyone smirk

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Originally Posted by Calvin
I use the silky f180 but am open to other suggestions. It's multi purpose for wood and for skull plates but the size of the teeth make it more ideal for wood. You'll get a good workout on a moose getting the skull plate off, but it beats packing the head out. It goes through deer skulls rather easily. I might look for a silky with finer teeth.

i HAVE BOTH RED AND YELLOW C-180'S. Red is great for most of the year but the yellowworks much better on bone and dry wood. You can buy just the blades too.

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I use a Silky Pocketboy (w/ a custom handle) I bring a wood blade and a extra fine (bone) blade- the blades weigh a fraction of an ounce

under 3 oz total for saw and two blades

Last edited by mtwarden; 12/23/23.
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Originally Posted by MuskegMan
Originally Posted by Theoldpinecricker
After you've used your small folding saw on legs or skull plate take and cut some brush or prune some sapling or branches on trees to clean your blade then wash it. This helps clean it without folding and packing that gunk home.

A little brain splooge never hurt anyone smirk

Brain splooge is where Mad Cow and CWD prions live.

CWD is killing our mule deer bucks before they get any age and has been detected in the elk herd.

No cases of transmission to people but it's a scouge in the deer herd and has dramatically changed Wyoming hunting for the worse.

If you hunt the lower 48 make sure you don't bring any brain splooge north. The prions don't seem to ever die (not really alive).


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I've been carrying a Silky Pocketboy 130 for a long time, but have never used it. I ream the pelvic canal from both, the inside and outside, and everything comes out as it should.

Last edited by eaglemountainman; 12/22/23.

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Originally Posted by mtwarden
I use a Silky Pocketboy (w/ a custom handle) I bring a wood blade and a extra fine (bone) blade- the blades weigh a fraction of an ounce

under 3 oz total for saw and two blades

with one blade

[Linked Image from imgur.com]

Last edited by mtwarden; 12/23/23.
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Mtwarden, how easy is it to change blades in the field with the pocketboy? Parts to lose in the snow? Time it takes?

I've been thinking of retiring the Wy Saw for something lighter and smaller.

Thanks

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It's just that one Phillips screw you see on the blade, so relatively easy; but there are some small parts you don't want to lose.

The original handle for the Pocketboy has bigger hardware and easier to manage- it weighs more than that 3d printed one, but it's sturdier too.

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Thanks!

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