Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Savage 99 shooting with a cracked stock

I have recently acquired a 1956 F in 300 sav. It checked all the boxes for the rifle I was looking for except that it has a cracked stock. I was aware of the stock's condition when I bought it, so know that I am not regretting the buy. The crack has been long ago repaired and it appears to have be a good job.

My shooting will be mostly paper at no more than 100yds at a local range where I am a range officer. There may be a deer/hog hunt left in me but age, health and desire are to be considered plus I have other rifles I could use. I won't be shooting max loads in either case. I would be happy with, and have a large amount of 150g PSP and the powders in the closet to produce velocities in the 2350 to 2450 range, comfortable range for me.

My question(s) are, if you please, are:

1) Shoot and ignore the cracked stock using loads tailored towards accuracy (I know my mind will not totally ignore)

2) Shoot reduced loads. If so, how much reduced?

3) Shoot cast bullets. I have some that might work with some trial and error fun for 1800 or so velocity. I note that the rifle is a 1:12 twist.

4) Don't shoot and seek a replacement stock?

5) Buy another rifle without a cracked stock.

Thank you for your comments.

Not all "stock cracks" are created equal.
Describe the crack or better yet some pics.
Tang? grip? toe? heal?
Then hopefully some useful replies will ensue.

All my 99s have tang cracks. I shoot them all quite a bit, and none of them have worsened in the time I've had them. Just anecdotal, but I've put well over 1000 rounds through the 303 so far, all jacketed or mono loads.

Very true... I had just assumed tang crack since they're near ubiquitous 😬

Good point indeed. I'll try to get some pics up later today.

Just shoot it

my 99EG 308 that I hunt elk with has a tang crack that hasn't gotten any worse.

If it was a decent repair it should be stronger than it was originally.

If it was repaired and is a normal tang crack, I'd check that the repair is holding.. and then shoot it with low to medium loads if it's just for enjoyment while paper shooting.

The 300 Savage isn't very brutal unless you load it hot. Just shoot and keep an eye on the repair for any signs it's starting to give out.

Yep

Pictures added to OP.

Best advice.
Remove the butt plate, stock (bolt) and inspect. If solid to your satisfaction, good to go. Otherwise you could re-pair it (clean it up and reglue w/clamp).

Zoikes.

That is a nasty crack.

I've never seen a tang crack that long before... that's actually kinda impressive 🧐

Wonder how deep it is?

I plan to answer that tomorrow. Stay tuned.

The force and pressure on the Savage 99 stock is focused on the lower rear receiver lug that the stock bolts to. I would think that is the area you would want to focus on as regards the stock crack and if the rifle is safe to shoot. As far as I s can see it, there is zero stress to the stock from the upper tang if the stock has been properly setup.

Your crack is longer than is normal for Savage 99's and that is going to need to be looked at closely. But in my experience, stock cracks at the tang are common on 99s and they continued to be used as is for decades in some cases with no issue. Also, as stated above, repairs often make the stock stronger.

I have a Steyr Mannlicher 30 06 and the buttstock was broken off at the wrist in a fall by the previous owner of the rifle. He had a good gunsmith fix it but sold it super cheap to me because of the stock break when he retired from hunting. This rifle is well over 50 years old. The break is noticeable if you look for it, but the way it has been pinned and reinforced and the action fully glass bedded, I have zero concern in shooting this rifle even with hotter loads. I believe it is much strong than it was new. And it is super accurate.

Additional pics of underside of stock crack repair.

I just posted two pics showing the underside area of the crack. The crack is as deep as the short top side of the inletted area but does not appear to progress into the thicker area directly behind the thinner area.
Sorry for my lack of more definitive terms.

WWGD?

(What would Gary do?)