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Some stuff called Opie's oil , was cleaning and refinishing an old desktop, turned out after getting all the crud off it was cherry . Talked to the guys in woodcrafter's and they said Opie's oil , best stuff I ever saw for a refinishing job,doesn't take much,rubs on smooth ,just use a small felt pad a little goes a long .only drawback ,it is expensive. The little 6oz? Bottle was 64 bucks but it could do maybe 10 rifle stocks so I guess if you cost it out it's not so bad

The


The RLO is already on my stock. At this point I wish to find a product to add shine.

Something simply isn't adding up here. I'm beginning to wonder if this whole thread is about definitions. Are you positively absolutely sure you used RAW linseed oil? I've heard people claim to be using raw linseed oil when in truth it was boiled linseed oil that they used in a "raw" (to them) state without adding anything to it. Real-for-real raw linseed oil will take forever to dry if in fact it ever really does - and if you've heard otherwise then your source of information is highly suspect.

The only reason for raw linseed oil to exist is for adding a bit to oil-based house paint to make it flow better, or for home alchemists to use as the basis for adding their own dryers and whatnot to make their own finish. If you have adulterated two stocks with the stuff you've treated them to the worst most inefficient finish possible.

If it were my project I would give them a long soak in acetone to eradicate as much of that stuff as I could, then start over from scratch and at least use something billed as an "oil finish" because at least it'll have some redeeming qualities to it.

I have a stock that has been treated with linseed oil. It looks great.

I am looking for a product that will now give the stock more shine.

Since Johnson paste wax ain't made anymore, you could give BRITWAX a try.
You need to keep Britwax in your fridge or it'll be too soft, almost liquid.
Minwax is another brand I've used. Just make damned sure that the stock is dry before you start waxing it.

Thank you. And to confirm: by dry do you mean simply dry to the touch, or the stock fully cured?

I mean dry as in the finish that you apply is fully polymerized(like how an epoxy dries). Drying times depend on the finish you use.
The Danish oil I've used takes almost a week to completely dry. 5 days at the least. Tung oil never seems to dry fast enough for me.

Oh yeah... You're welcome...

Well, I used raw linseed oil so I'll probably be waiting a while!

Buddy, I think you're just trolling. Go by what you "read" somewhere, instead of the experience of those who actually do it. Get a life.

Tru-Oil plus Renaissance Wax.......

I don't know who you're replying to nor why you wish to be rude.

I would like to try Tru-Oil based on the pictures of the results, but my understanding that you use Tru-Oil starting from a raw stock, not on top of linseed oil.

I have a stock treated with linseed oil. I wish now to get more shine and am looking for a product to do that.

Yeah, troll, we get that part.

Tru Oil will work over just about any existing finish as long as the surface has been prepared properly and the existing finish is well cured. A main ingredient in Tru-Oil is, SHOCKER HERE, linseed oil, and the rest is what's found in many other types of wood finish. Nothing mysterious.

Tell ya what, reach out to Sitka Deer, here on the 'fire. His name is Art in real life. He's like the wood finish guru around here. Maybe he's got time to educate you properly on your project. (my apologies Art).

By the way, you won't make a lot of friends around here with that whackado leftist bullshiit.......

There was a short hiccup in production of JPW, but it is readily available now.

Original BriWax is better for stock work as it is much harder.

I don't know why you think a forum member asking about how to treat a wood stock is trolling, nor why you'd continue to offer advice if you don't think my posts seeking advice are genuine. Moreover, I'm sorry you are unhappy that politics are permitted here. The admins encourage political content so that's a question for them.

As I said, I don't know about Tru-Oil or finishes. That's why I'm here seeking help.

Be happy with looks great. It's a M1.
If you wanted super shiny, why did you use linseed oil?

Degree of "shine" with an oil finish is entirely dependent upon wood surface treatment, regardless of finish used (as long as it's fully cured). The finer the finish abrasive the more shine.

Sanded to 220x or maybe 320x, oiled, and waxed with any quality paste wax is as far as I would take an M1 stock to avoid making it look like a pimped-up Bubba Special. As for waxes there's a bunch of good ones. I've settled on Renaissance Wax.

As for Hitler:Trump - really?

When I decided to refinish an old Garand stock I asked other folks in the CMP forums what they typically used. They generally try to get something approaching an original and/or authentic finish for Garand stocks so BLO, RLO and Tung are quite commonly used and recommended.

One cartouched stock I used RLO on looks good and has the appropriate amount of matte sheen - I wouldn't mind just a bit more shine on it so maybe I'll just try another coat or two of RLO, since there appears to be no kind of finishing wax that adds shine.

The other stock I'm doing (pictured here) isn't a cartouched stock so I'm not worried about authenticity. Moreover, as it's birch, I think more shine will help it pop. At this point, maybe it makes more sense to strip it and start over with Tru-Oil. I've already put some work into it, but since it's going to take, apparently, weeks or months to fully cure before I can put another product on top of it (assuming such a product exists, which it looks like it doesn't), I suppose I can just use that time to start over with Tru-Oil.

I've checked out Rennaissance Wax and it seems good to have around, generally, but I've inferred it does not add any shine and that you can't put it over RLO. If that's not true then I'd like to try it. I assume I'd have to wait until the RLO fully cured first?

I have already provided you a recipe for making LO shiny. Or a least shinier.