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Originally Posted by powdr
Looks like I'll be looking for a throw away in the 3500-4000 range for as cheap as I can get one. Rost's idea sounds about the best unless I find a used one. powdr
I sell BSPP (Briggs & Stratton Power Products)and Hondas.The BSPP has generac made components. I've seen them go 800+ hours with crappy maintanance from customers. My cost for the 3500W RV model was $430. I usually mark em up about $100. Don't buy too many throw aways with some quality equipment available that is pretty affordable. This one is quiet and comes with a 30A RV receptacle.

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I've always given free estimates and some preliminary check overs on equipment. This went away for the Chinese knockoffs after losing money too many times. There are jobs that don't get finished because of lack of parts, etc. Champions are included on my bad list. Some air compressors, power washers, etc are also junk and hard to work on.

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The honda 3k is quieter than the honda 2k. Both are really quiet.

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[quoteYep. Buy two and the cord to parallel them.



Two of them in parrallel would be perfect if you've got the wallet. They are amazing machines.[/quote]


You're blowing my mind! How do you sync the wave-forms of two AC generators in parallel?


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Originally Posted by GunReader

You're blowing my mind! How do you sync the wave-forms of two AC generators in parallel?


Ancient Chinese secret! grin

Series?

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No, it is parallel. Electricity is not my strong suit.

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Originally Posted by GunReader
[quoteYep. Buy two and the cord to parallel them.



Two of them in parrallel would be perfect if you've got the wallet. They are amazing machines.



You're blowing my mind! How do you sync the wave-forms of two AC generators in parallel? [/quote]


It's quite simple really:

[Linked Image]




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Originally Posted by deflave
Originally Posted by ironbender
This or just get a bigger gen. I can't see a 2kw gen running the AC, fridge, lights, etc for a 16' trailer.


When I was looking at them Honda only made their inverter generators up to 3K. They might make a 4K, but I don't recall seeing one.

Yamaha makes a 4K inverter, and my buddy has one. Bad ass generator, incredibly quiet, but heavy as fugg, cost over $3,000.00 brand new, and you only have one generator.

For around $2500.00 (more cheaper actually) you can have two very portable, very reliable, very quiet generators that can be paralleled and will likely handle most any task involved with campers.

That's why I recommend the two smaller Hondas. Or, two smaller Yamahas. I have another friend that has the 2K Yamaha's and he is very happy with them as well. I just prefer Hondas.




Travis

Understood and I agree. But...I still think the place to start is to figure elec draw of all circuits and appliances, etc. Then the OP can calculate start surge and added margin needed.


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In that vid I posted the guy said that hooking two Honda 2000s together with the factory harness will still only get you 20 amps because of the built in breaker. His kit allows for a 26 amp load.

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I keep seeing the fridge mentioned. If we're still talking about an RV fridge, I don't know of one that won't run on propane. You only need a battery to start the pilot.

I've dry camped 14 days straight and never used the Gen except to run an AC or charge a battery. We're not talking about running a house during a power outage. Unless he wants dual purpose.

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I would run the Hondas with what Honda recos, makes, and sells.

YMMV.


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Originally Posted by powdr
Looks like I'll be looking for a throw away in the 3500-4000 range for as cheap as I can get one. Rost's idea sounds about the best unless I find a used one. powdr

We went the cheap route for our 22 ft trailer.

Cabela's had a 3500/4000 watt unit on sale for $329 around the middle of June. I found out, it is made by Champion.

Doing a little research, Camping World told me the Champion 3500 would not run an RV AC unit at our elevation (2500 ft) since they had made them California compliant.

That left me concerned as our campsites are in excess of 5500 ft.

It turned out that the Cabela's generator was labeled "Not For Sale in California". It is fitted with a 30 amp RV outlet or one may draw power from a 20 amp 220V outlet or use an included cord to split the 220 into two 20 amp 110 V circuits.

We run the refer on gas, and the generator powers the AC at 100 degree plus temps and recharges the two twelve volt deep cycle batteries with no trouble.


The caveat is, the AC must be turned off before the microwave can be started. (Momma insisted that that she get to take a microwave along to warm her coffee.)

Also these cheap generators are not good for sensitive electronic devices. But I am one who has promised to shoot the first TV or computer to appear in the camper.


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That's weird. My Generac 4000 is Ca compliant and will run lights, AC, and charge the battery at 8000 ft.

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Quote
It turned out that the Cabela's generator was labeled "Not For Sale in California". It is fitted with a 30 amp RV outlet or one may draw power from a 20 amp 220V outlet or use an included cord to split the 220 into two 20 amp 110 V circuits.
Interesting. I looked over the specs on Cabela's website for their 3500 and here's what it says:

Receptacles include 30 amp 120 volt AC twistlock, one 30-amp 120-volt RV receptacle, a 20-amp 120-volt.

There's no mention of a 220v outlet. Must be a typo or something.


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Originally Posted by pira114
That's weird. My Generac 4000 is Ca compliant and will run lights, AC, and charge the battery at 8000 ft.

Same with my Onan. It has an altitude adjustment knob on the carb that I think adjusts the main jet. I didn't even notice it until I had to replace the carb last week. The only difference I think is the California carb is sealed and un-adjustable and un-rebuildable.


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Originally Posted by Rock Chuck
Quote
It turned out that the Cabela's generator was labeled "Not For Sale in California". It is fitted with a 30 amp RV outlet or one may draw power from a 20 amp 220V outlet or use an included cord to split the 220 into two 20 amp 110 V circuits.
Interesting. I looked over the specs on Cabela's website for their 3500 and here's what it says:

Receptacles include 30 amp 120 volt AC twistlock, one 30-amp 120-volt RV receptacle, a 20-amp 120-volt.

There's no mention of a 220v outlet. Must be a typo or something.


Now that you mention it, I never did put the volt meter across to see if it made 220. It is a four prong outlet with two separate 110 feeds coming out of it, I suppose i just assumed one could cross them and get 220.


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