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I bought one of those Wheeler Scope alignment kits that includes two metal cylinders both of which have a pointed end. They work great for most mounts and bases but, I don't see how they can work with the Talley rings since you have to separate the mounts halves-not top and bottom like most mounts. they are mounted with a left and right ring. How would you know if your properly aligned left to right and top/bottom with those rings? These are the rings I have. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/621996/talley-1-fixed-scope-rings-matte-low
Last edited by Kitch; 12/12/13.
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Last edited by woofer; 12/12/13.
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I'm not worried about lapping them. I'm concerned about having them aligned.
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A pair of pointed-end cylinders don't prove much, unless you also lay a straight-edge along both cylinders IF the points align. Otherwise it's like touching the tips of two ball-point pens. That doesn't mean they're aligned.
If the rear ends of both cylinders are flat, turn them around and see if those ends match up. If they do, with no gaps, then the rings are straight.
If there are problems, one way to deal with it is lapping--but the fault isn't usually in Talley rings. Instead it's probably in the surface of the action, which isn't even, due to polishing or other problems. It actually works better to "bed" the bases on top of the action, using a straight 1" bar through both rings, using typical action-bedding epoxy. There are various ways to do this, but one of the best is with an Echols scope bar, which has slots so the bases can be screwed down while the rings are on the bar. Talley also can machine the undersides of their bases so the rings are straight.
If you lap the rings to "straighten" the insides, they'll probably be useless for putting on another rifle.
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I've read that these particular rings are "self-aligning" but, I don't know about that. That would be great IF it's true.
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To a certain extent ALL rings are "self-aligning," but it depends on how much the bases are out of alignment, and how tight you tighten 'em!
However, if the top of the rifle's action isn't too far off, I've found Talleys to work very well.
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I got the mounts in the mail today and soon will have this scope mounted. Talley doesn't send any info with them or the rings as to use purple, blue Loctite, drop of oil(like Leupold recommends)-nothing.
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On vertical split Talleys I still use the alignment bars it just takes patience. I've never had ring marks from Talley steel rings. They are more self aligning than other mounts since they tighten to base and scope simultaneously. Now the aluminum Talley lightweights are a different story. They usually need lapping bad IME. I've also never had the pointy ends of alignment bars fail to indicate alignment as JB has. I suppose by coincidence they could align while both being out but it's not likely. Next time I use my bars ill turn them around flats touching and try it though.
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I have also found that the aluminum Talley's can usually use a little lapping.
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I got the mounts in the mail today and soon will have this scope mounted. Talley doesn't send any info with them or the rings as to use purple, blue Loctite, drop of oil(like Leupold recommends)-nothing. I don't use Loctite on rings, but blue would be my recommendation if you do. Use blue for the bases.
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I agree with John. The pointed bars may easily touch and appear to be aligned, while the rings are not aligned. My old alignment/lapping kit has two bars with only flats. They immediately indicate non-alignment. It is very easy to see even very slight misalignment when those flats don't perfectly coincide. Another kit with the points can easily be fooled.
I lap all rings to minimize scope tweaking and marks. Seems to work for me.
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A pair of pointed-end cylinders don't prove much, unless you also lay a straight-edge along both cylinders IF the points align. Otherwise it's like touching the tips of two ball-point pens. That doesn't mean they're aligned.
If the rear ends of both cylinders are flat, turn them around and see if those ends match up. If they do, with no gaps, then the rings are straight.
If there are problems, one way to deal with it is lapping--but the fault isn't usually in Talley rings. Instead it's probably in the surface of the action, which isn't even, due to polishing or other problems. It actually works better to "bed" the bases on top of the action, using a straight 1" bar through both rings, using typical action-bedding epoxy. There are various ways to do this, but one of the best is with an Echols scope bar, which has slots so the bases can be screwed down while the rings are on the bar. Talley also can machine the undersides of their bases so the rings are straight.
If you lap the rings to "straighten" the insides, they'll probably be useless for putting on another rifle.
Mule Deer, Saw a youtube video of a guy using JB Weld to bed the rear section of a one-piece base. Looks like only a small amout was needed. Do you see any issues with using the JB Weld? GB
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