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I would start by setting the receiver up in a 4 jaw chuck or Jacobs Collet chuck. Then set up a single point threading tool in a good area of the thread. With the half-nut engaged, keep the tool a little away from full depth and turn the chuck by HAND and see how it looks in the bad part of the thread. If it looks good carefully finish it to clean. Hard to tell from a picture but the thread looks salvageable.
Last edited by old_boots; 02/18/22.
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Those look like they may clean up with a tap. If not no biggie to cut them oversized. It may just be the picture but the action screw threads don’t look that good either.
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I would start by setting the receiver up in a 4 jaw chuck or Jacobs Collet chuck. Then set up a single point threading tool in a good area of the thread. With the half-nut engaged, keep the tool a little away from full depth and turn the chuck by HAND and see how it looks in the bad part of the thread. If it looks good carefully finish it to clean. Hard to tell from a picture but the thread looks salvageable. Wrong. The OD of the action is 100% guaranteed not to be concentric with the bore of the action. The only way to correctly get set up on the bore is with a mandrel in the bore then adjust whatever holding fixture to get the bore running true. Simply holding the OD in a chuck or collet will result in threads that are not true with the bolt.
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There's not much that can be done on removal to stop galling. Once it's pulling....it's pulling.
That looks like it would save easily via tap.
Don't let anyone chuck that up and start chewing on it in a 4 jaw unless it's on a TBAS type setup or they at least stuffed a mandrel in it to indicate it in.
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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Seems like using a mandrel to center up a single point cutter may or may not be the best route to take. Since you want to repair the existing threads and not cut new threads, you would need to center up on where the original threads were indicated on. If it is a factory thread chances are good they are indicated on the action OD. Seems like using a single point as described above but moving into the thread very slowly by hand and continuing to monitor as you go so you are cutting evenly will yield the cleanest result without cutting a new and possibly either deeper or out of center thread. Pretty sure that would make the action practically useless or a new, oversized thread would need to be cut and a new barrel would be needed. Seems like the easiest way to get the set up correct would be with a 4 jaw chuck if you take your time to set it up and monitor the set up during the cut. If set up correctly, it may not even need to be cut to full depth, just enough to clean up the damage.... just my observation by I really am not a gunsmith or machinist so I'm pretty far outside the box looking at this...
In any case, a good anti-seize would be a good idea on reassembly?
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People have been re-cutting threads on Remingtons and other actions for many, many years and the correct set-up is always geared toward cutting threads which are co-axial to the bore of the action. If the threads end up .005" oversized, it will do no harm, practically speaking. If the contact surface is altered though, the barrel will no longer index the same. Headspace will be unchanged. In this instance, a piloted tap would work fine. GD
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People have been re-cutting threads on Remingtons and other actions for many, many years and the correct set-up is always geared toward cutting threads which are co-axial to the bore of the action. If the threads end up .005" oversized, it will do no harm, practically speaking. If the contact surface is altered though, the barrel will no longer index the same. Headspace will be unchanged. In this instance, a piloted tap would work fine. GD For that matter wouldn't a good thread chaser be just as good? Since you're just repairing existing threads instead of cutting new ones?
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A tap will fix your threads. It will do one of two things. It will either cut out any material that is grossly out of place or it will move material back into the correct place. As said by more than one person in this thread, don’t let’s some hack set it up on the OD of the action and start machining on it. That guy will make your situation worst than it is now.
Last edited by BangPop; 02/19/22.
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A tap will fix your threads. It will do one of two things. It will either cut out any material that is grossly out of place or it will move material back into the correct place. As said by more than one person in this thread, don’t let’s some hack set it up on the OD of the action and start machining on it. That guy will make your situation worst than it is now. What a dumpster fire, Remington 700 receivers were machined then heat treated which always caused a warp in them. The bolt bore and threads were never concentric to the od. Over the years real gunsmiths learned you could take that tube of 4150 and true them up by reaming a straight bolt bore, truing the threads straight to the bore, the face of the action to the threads, adding a bump to the bolt and making pretty good actions out of them. This is a case of some dumb ass knocking a barrel out of an action with a front base screw in contact with the threads on the barrel. Clean them up with a non piloted tap and move on.
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