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257Bob Offline OP
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For those of you who have construction experience, how do I figure out the appropriate side angles for this type of structure. Thinking the ridge line / roof pitch would be ideally 8/12 for my purposes, no idea what the side joint angles should be. Shed to be 12x24, made go with this design, maybe not!
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Just Google 8/12 pitch if you just wanna see what it looks like


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About 33.69


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If you just want a quick measure, one of these is pretty handy.

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Draw a line from point to point.
Then put your Speed Square or framing square up there and read it.
At the ridge, draw a plumb line with a level, then put your square up there and read it.

Use metal roofing (or something) to give yourself some overhang.


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Is there a ridge board? Are there going to be collar ties? If not, you need to tear it down and start over, doing it right, if you expect any kind of snow load (as that don't look like Florida to me)......

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Use your Speed Square


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Hand your Plan to a Truss company


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257Bob Offline OP
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Originally Posted by huntsman22
Is there a ridge board? Are there going to be collar ties? If not, you need to tear it down and start over, doing it right, if you expect any kind of snow load (as that don't look like Florida to me)......

It's a photo of what I want to build, I'm on FL!

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257Bob Offline OP
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To be clear, it's the wall/roof angle on the 2x6s that I'm trying to figure. What's the correct angle where these two 2x6s meet?

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257Bob Offline OP
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This is my last one, 12x16, a cabin (the one I want to build now is a shed), 12/12 pitch, traditional build.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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Always, where in TN do you reside? I’m in KY 60 miles north of Bowling Green.

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I think Wabi was on the right track. Just need to divide the overall 33.69 degree of where the wall meets the roof (8 12 pitch) by two, for the angle of each board. Both eve ends would cut at 16.845 degrees

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Most of these sheds use minimal lumber. There is no top plates , ridge Or collar ties in the picture. You can get plan books on garages , sheds. I would recommend hiring a person who knows construction and work with him. You will learn a lot. For resale value, put on foundation. Have fun!

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Loft it. That is draw it out full size on the floor. All you need to know is your wall height. The 8/12 proportion is easy to layout on a straight line with one perpendicular to it. Find the center and you're done. These are arches that normally have plywood gussets or truss plates holding the pieces together. I don't see how he's done it here. It doesn't matter how the junctions are formed. Bisect the joints or butt the angles together either way you want. The gussets are what matter. You will have two patterns, a stud and a rafter. Cut as many as you need. Assemble one at a time on top of your full scale drawing. Keep things straight! Normally the gussets protrude inside, forming more of a triangular connection for stiffness. 5/8" ply. There is no overhang here. Not the best practice. You could let your rafter extend over and past the stud a foot or so. That way your gusset could form your soffitt framing on the outside.

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Originally Posted by 257Bob
Originally Posted by huntsman22
Is there a ridge board? Are there going to be collar ties? If not, you need to tear it down and start over, doing it right, if you expect any kind of snow load (as that don't look like Florida to me)......

It's a photo of what I want to build, I'm on FL!
OK, so now we know that you are not onsite and this is an Internet pic.
It also sounds like you are possibly trying to figure out how to build the roof and wall frame as a single truss ?
If so, snap it out (read chalk box) on your slab (or whatever) and all your information will be right there in front of you.

You can snap out half of it if you don't have the room for the whole thing.
Just snap a centerline first and then build off of that.

Or as someone else said, take your plan to your local truss company.


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Originally Posted by 257Bob
To be clear, it's the wall/roof angle on the 2x6s that I'm trying to figure. What's the correct angle where these two 2x6s meet?

First off, you don't want it built like that. You need to top plate the walls and seat cut the rafters. Get somebody that has a clue......

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Use your Speed Square and stop making the complicated


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Originally Posted by huntsman22
Originally Posted by 257Bob
To be clear, it's the wall/roof angle on the 2x6s that I'm trying to figure. What's the correct angle where these two 2x6s meet?

First off, you don't want it built like that. You need to top plate the walls and seat cut the rafters. Get somebody that has a clue......

First clue is this is what he wants . Requires less skill and provides some advantages for untrained DYI folks.

OP you will have to trust in your ability to learn as you try. If you will loft it out full scale every angle will be given to you right there in precise detail. A bevel gauge is useful but not required. You can lay your boards directly on the drawing to mark the angles. Forget math, geometry or anything. Even 8:12 is an abstraction you do not need. It really is easy.

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Originally Posted by Crash_Pad
Originally Posted by huntsman22
Originally Posted by 257Bob
To be clear, it's the wall/roof angle on the 2x6s that I'm trying to figure. What's the correct angle where these two 2x6s meet?

First off, you don't want it built like that. You need to top plate the walls and seat cut the rafters. Get somebody that has a clue......

First clue is this is what he wants . Requires less skill and provides some advantages for untrained DYI folks.

OP you will have to trust in your ability to learn as you try. If you will loft it out full scale every angle will be given to you right there in precise detail. A bevel gauge is useful but not required. You can lay your boards directly on the drawing to mark the angles. Forget math, geometry or anything. Even 8:12 is an abstraction you do not need. It really is easy.

BS, huntsman22 is spot on. What possible advantages could that layout have over setting up normal walls and building the roof to fit it? I don’t get much easier than that. Plus, an eve overhang is just one of the benefits to going that route.
I think the OPs biggest concern is just having a shed.

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