Home Forums Hunting & Shooting General Big Game 225 yard zero

What can Texan say about The Outdoors,other than "Pull!" as victims ride the fence line. Hint.

Same thing about the Bitchigan Dumbfhuqks and their version of The Outdoors. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!...............

MPBR 6" (+/-3").

.270 Win./150 gr.: 230 yds. - MPBR: 270 yds (Scoped)
6.5x55mm/140 gr.: 225 yds. - MPBR: 265 yds (Aperture sights)




GR

I didn't even mention my cock.

#uncanny
#thanksfornoticing

I dont know the ballistics of a 338, however if you know you are 150 yds, and you should be able to judge that w/o a gadget then you may choose to make a adjustment. Its easy and quick without twirling & fuggin around. Yer not looking for a bull on a piece of paper. If one is familiar and experienced with their rifle, holding slightly low at that range is no big deal. Even if you held on and were 4.5" high its dead.

Yep……been zeroing (cartridges with mv’s around 3000 fps) at 300 yards for many years. With our rifles, we can easily “hold on hair” out to 400 yards. The only caveat is you can easily (if you have your head up your a$$) shoot over a small animal (Fox, coyote, ect.) at the peak of the mid-range trajectory, which happens at around 170 ish yards! However, these rifles are for big game…..if you can’t control your emotions and make an adjustment on meaningless shots (coyotes, ect) you should stick to video games! memtb

Or instead of correcting for short-to-mid-range shots, you can zero at a closer distance and make the correction on longer shots, where you have more time to think and get stable. Building the largest error into shots at the 170 yard range where many shots are taken is inviting a miss. With POI about 4” high at 100 yards and 4.5-5” above POA at 170 (assuming a decently aerodynamic bullet at 3000 fps MV), even a center-mass hold means that you’re close to the top edge of the vitals, and any unexpected wobble or animal movement takes the bullet out of vitals.

Obviously it’s been working for you for years, so I’m not saying you should change, but I wouldn’t advocate for a 300 yard zero for hunting purposes. Back in the day, when we didn’t have many options, I used to zero 3” high at 100 yards and use the MPBR, center-mass-hold approach (using Duplex reticle thickness transitions for hitting out to about 500 yards), but now we have more effective ways of arranging POA/POI intersection. Using a PBR of 200-250 yards can still make sense for quick, reasonably close shots, but now we have effective ways of correcting for distances beyond that that don’t require the bullet to be 4-5” above LOS at sub-200 yard distances.

I have never zeroed at more than 100 yards, .06 .308, 7 mag. except my antelope rifle of 6.5 Swede. Probably 90% of elk are shot within 200 yards and most at 100 or less. . All off my rifles I shoot out to 300 yards to verify the drop.

The last bull I killed in 2018 was about 350yards. Bang flop. The fellows in the next camp helped me unload my elk at camp,so I took them in the next day, set the father on a rock and told him to watch a particular area. I went on the pack out the front quarters of my elk. At 7:30, I hear about 10 shots from that location. Sure enough a few cows came out and a bull.This guy was turret twirler and he set his scope for 700 yards. It was probably 400. I know because I have shot a few elk there. He did clip the bull maybe once as we found blood but it only lasted about 200 yards. He never found the bull. Another guy missed another a bull year or so before that because his range finder said 500 yards, but he was shooting steeply up hill. More like 300. He blew them all above the bull. I have seen this happen with people I took hunting at least a half dozen times.Yep,one was using that MPB.

It has been my experience that most people coming from the flat lands cannot estimate distances and don't remember to compensate for uphill and downhill shots. They may know about it but forget it in the heat of the moment.. For the longer range shots, most have enough time to range them and compensate for the distances by knowing their rifle's trajectory. Too many hunters have become addicted to technology and have not learned the basics of shooting at distances close or far. IMHO

As comfortable as you asking stupid questions, why are you questioning his methods?

Dammit, go find a plum to suck on

Hah! What he said. Elk hunting with a 4 inch high at 100 yards zero I could hold center chest past 300 yards and still on hair at 400. If it was farther than that I would hold where I could just see some light between the elk and the crosshairs. If it were too far for that hold I would get closer, usually did anyway. And no I didn't shoot coyotes with it sighted that way just elk. Deer or antelope hunting I would run 150 grain bullets and sight in 3 inches high. The number of game animals I took with that 30-06 is impressive, more than many people take in a lifetime with all their rifles.

Hey dumbphuqk, if you may notice, I wasn't fuqking talking to you, you stupid pillow-biting cocksuqker.

Using "yards" with firearms...good for old school or beginners.

Valid points and well taken!

However, as you mentioned, it’s worked for years and has become second nature to compensate! While we may be a bit high at the mid range, easily within the kill zone on most big game….a 200 yard zero puts us near 18” low at 400. We find being just a bit high at mid range is easier to work with than dealing with 18” low @ 400! But, that’s just me! memtb

I zero at 200-220. Shooting a 300 win and 6mm Remington. The 6 has shot deer antelope wolf and lion but it’s main purpose is coyotes. And I want to be as close as I can get for a hold on hair without dialing for as far out as I can. Most of them are 200-300 yards.

I don’t understand why I’d need to zero at 100 for an accurate baseline. My zero still provides an accurate baseline.

We all hunt in different country but 130-150 yards is not a typical shot here. Not saying we always have long range shots, but I’d say 200-400 is more typical than the 130-150.

As far as big game goes I shoot way more elk than anything else. A lot of the elk we shoot are late season and for sure in the 3-400 yard range. I don’t have a dialing scope on the 300. There’s no way I’m using a 100 zero.

A 100 yard zero is standard baseline.

You ZERO your rifle at 100 yards so it is DEAD ON, TITS with regard to elevation and WINDAGE. Zeroing at 100 negates or minimizes wind effects and your groups will be smaller making the ZERO as dead on as possible.

Set your elevation turret to -0- and your windage turret to -0- after your POA is exactly the POI at 100 yards

At this point, if you’re not a complete moron and have done your homework verifying your load’s drop data, you can then dial to the ZERO you wish to have when you walk out of camp and you can also accurately dial from your 100 yard baseline for long range opportunities

Post up some targets and game animals or STFU

Assuming that everyone has a rangefinder and/or the time to use it……or have scopes with readily adjustable turrets.

In the real world it’s not always as you suggest or believe it to be!

Also to be clear, we sight in @ 100, then move to 300 for the zero. Wind is not an issue…..we don’t sight in with the wind blowing? So simple a cave man can do it! 😉 memtb

I’m still using an antique non dialing scope on the one rifle. I’ll keep ZEROing at 200-220 and keep killing the snot out of the elk up here.

On the dialing scope I can ZERO it pretty well at 220 thanks. That gives me a better ZERO for shooting called coyotes to 300ish without any dialing. Then past that I’ll dial to what my rangefinder tells me above my 220 ZERO!

Everyone gets your sighting in procedure. I’m still wondering why it’d be better in a real world hunting scenario.

I do exactly this, and tweak it a bit after firing extended ranges, discovering that it won't change my 300yd impact enough to be concerned with, but will line up with my 400 or 500yd hash mark on my BDC.

Totally good with it. I shoot that rifle a lot. It’s my dedicated elk rig now. So, if a shot at 100 yards presents itself, I can either aim right where I want, or if I really care that much, I can aim just a smidge low. That’s really not any different than holding a smidge high if I’m beyond my point blank range. What is really nice about the system is that I don’t have to fiddle with my scope. My elk experience is little, (two hunts, one dead bull, OTC in unit 270 in Montana). But I still use the same type of setup for deer and pigs here in Texas; I just have a smaller target, so therefore, a closer zero distance. If you like spinning turrets, more power to you. But considering that I’m limiting my shots to 3-400 yards, the system I’m using suits me fine.

Now for BigStick, I wouldn’t pay him much attention. He may be able to shoot a long ways and that’s a good thing, because we all know his fat ass isn’t humping any mountains or packing any more weight than is already attached to his glutinous frame.