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Originally Posted by rcamuglia
A 100 yard zero is standard baseline.

You ZERO your rifle at 100 yards so it is DEAD ON, TITS with regard to elevation and WINDAGE. Zeroing at 100 negates or minimizes wind effects and your groups will be smaller making the ZERO as dead on as possible.

Set your elevation turret to -0- and your windage turret to -0- after your POA is exactly the POI at 100 yards

At this point, if you’re not a complete moron and have done your homework verifying your load’s drop data, you can then dial to the ZERO you wish to have when you walk out of camp and you can also accurately dial from your 100 yard baseline for long range opportunities

That’s all well and good until your scope [bleep] the bed. The 338F Montana I mentioned in my earlier post wears a Leupold FX-II 4x28mm and I can hit well with it as far as I’d care to shoot at an elk. Not saying anything is wrong with your system, but it does allow more room for mechanical failure.

Or you can be like BigStick. Ie-buy a bunch of rifles, top them with $2k scopes and then throw them in the river to take a picture because your too fat to actually go where animals are.

GB1

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Originally Posted by johnn
Originally Posted by rcamuglia
Originally Posted by Jeffrey
Originally Posted by johnn
Zero at maximum point blank range.

Yup

Got my elk hunt coming up in a few weeks. The 338F is sighted in at 270 yards.

I’ll probably use my new 280ai this year for deer, in which case my zero may be less than my 338F since my target animal and kill zone will be considerably smaller than the elk I am after with the 338F.

For my maximum hunting ranges on medium game, maybe 3-400 yards, I find sighting in with this method negates the need for putting dope on the rifle.



So you’re good with going into the field with a rifle that shoots 4 1/2” high at 150 yards?

I dont know the ballistics of a 338, however if you know you are 150 yds, and you should be able to judge that w/o a gadget then you may choose to make a adjustment. Its easy and quick without twirling & fuggin around. Yer not looking for a bull on a piece of paper. If one is familiar and experienced with their rifle, holding slightly low at that range is no big deal. Even if you held on and were 4.5" high its dead.

Exactly right, John.
I killed my first bull last fall. We (the elk and I) surprised each other when I first saw him standing in an open field with a couple dozen cows. I shot him, kneeling, right at 200 yards. When I dropped to a knee and sighted in on him, he was on the other side of a slight rise and the grass in the field went up to the midline of his body as seen through my scope. I held the crosshairs right on top of the grass and squeezed. At 200 yards my load is still about 4” high with that 270 yard zero. Even with a high hold, I still dropped the bull with the 180 grain accubond punching through the top of both shoulder blades. The bull dropped at the shot and I closed the gap quickly and finished him with one through the neck. That’s the beauty of the MPBR method; simplicity and it works.

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Jennifer,

NOTHING is fhuqking funnier,than a Crying Texan trying to "talk" rifles...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Fortunately for you,Imitation and Pretend are free,so even you can "afford" to "contribute",with your Professional Victim status and Hurt Feeler reports. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!...............


Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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Originally Posted by Darryle
Originally Posted by rcamuglia
A 100 yard zero is standard baseline.

You ZERO your rifle at 100 yards so it is DEAD ON, TITS with regard to elevation and WINDAGE. Zeroing at 100 negates or minimizes wind effects and your groups will be smaller making the ZERO as dead on as possible.

Set your elevation turret to -0- and your windage turret to -0- after your POA is exactly the POI at 100 yards

At this point, if you’re not a complete moron and have done your homework verifying your load’s drop data, you can then dial to the ZERO you wish to have when you walk out of camp and you can also accurately dial from your 100 yard baseline for long range opportunities


Post up some targets and game animals or STFU


Cheryl,

You obviously are a complete Fuqking moron. I see that you are an NSCA Life Member. Join again because it will take two lifetimes for you to shoot your way out of E class.


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
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Originally Posted by Jeffrey
Originally Posted by johnn
Originally Posted by rcamuglia
Originally Posted by Jeffrey
Originally Posted by johnn
Zero at maximum point blank range.

Yup

Got my elk hunt coming up in a few weeks. The 338F is sighted in at 270 yards.

I’ll probably use my new 280ai this year for deer, in which case my zero may be less than my 338F since my target animal and kill zone will be considerably smaller than the elk I am after with the 338F.

For my maximum hunting ranges on medium game, maybe 3-400 yards, I find sighting in with this method negates the need for putting dope on the rifle.



So you’re good with going into the field with a rifle that shoots 4 1/2” high at 150 yards?

I dont know the ballistics of a 338, however if you know you are 150 yds, and you should be able to judge that w/o a gadget then you may choose to make a adjustment. Its easy and quick without twirling & fuggin around. Yer not looking for a bull on a piece of paper. If one is familiar and experienced with their rifle, holding slightly low at that range is no big deal. Even if you held on and were 4.5" high its dead.

Exactly right, John.
I killed my first bull last fall. We (the elk and I) surprised each other when I first saw him standing in an open field with a couple dozen cows. I shot him, kneeling, right at 200 yards. When I dropped to a knee and sighted in on him, he was on the other side of a slight rise and the grass in the field went up to the midline of his body as seen through my scope. I held the crosshairs right on top of the grass and squeezed. At 200 yards my load is still about 4” high with that 270 yard zero. Even with a high hold, I still dropped the bull with the 180 grain accubond punching through the top of both shoulder blades. The bull dropped at the shot and I closed the gap quickly and finished him with one through the neck. That’s the beauty of the MPBR method; simplicity and it works.
It works once you know your equipment and distance, I dont have a twirler on my old rifle. In fact no adjustment on the scope, its all in the base. Works fine, gun goes bang, something always falls over. Put it in the freezer.


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Originally Posted by saddlesore
I have never zeroed at more than 100 yards, .06 .308, 7 mag. except my antelope rifle of 6.5 Swede. Probably 90% of elk are shot within 200 yards and most at 100 or less. . All off my rifles I shoot out to 300 yards to verify the drop.

The last bull I killed in 2018 was about 350yards. Bang flop. The fellows in the next camp helped me unload my elk at camp,so I took them in the next day, set the father on a rock and told him to watch a particular area. I went on the pack out the front quarters of my elk. At 7:30, I hear about 10 shots from that location. Sure enough a few cows came out and a bull.This guy was turret twirler and he set his scope for 700 yards. It was probably 400. I know because I have shot a few elk there. He did clip the bull maybe once as we found blood but it only lasted about 200 yards. He never found the bull. Another guy missed another a bull year or so before that because his range finder said 500 yards, but he was shooting steeply up hill. More like 300. He blew them all above the bull. I have seen this happen with people I took hunting at least a half dozen times.Yep,one was using that MPB.

It has been my experience that most people coming from the flat lands cannot estimate distances and don't remember to compensate for uphill and downhill shots. They may know about it but forget it in the heat of the moment.. For the longer range shots, most have enough time to range them and compensate for the distances by knowing their rifle's trajectory. Too many hunters have become addicted to technology and have not learned the basics of shooting at distances close or far. IMHO

succinct!

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Originally Posted by Big Stick
Jennifer,

NOTHING is fhuqking funnier,than a Crying Texan trying to "talk" rifles...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Fortunately for you,Imitation and Pretend are free,so even you can "afford" to "contribute",with your Professional Victim status and Hurt Feeler reports. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!...............

Bigshit,
Where am I pretending? Is it the part where you throw rifles in the river or that you’re too fat to hump up and down a mountain?

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Jennifer,

Your High Fenced High Pitch Nasal Whine,sure is soothing...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Do you scream "Get some!",as you peer over the haybale with your pencil neck,pointy head and crossed-eyes,to get a good look at the feeder? Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!..............


Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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Seems like anything in the 2800fps+ range zeroed at 200-225 would give easy hits to 275 without any real thought to trajectory, up or down. This is not a bad plan and would cover most hunting. You long range guys know what works for you so carry on.

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Very interesting. I’ve always liked zeroing most rifles about 2-2.5” high at 100y which works out to about a 225 yard zero. I’ve found it to work out extremely well.

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I've done a 200 m (220 yd) zero more than a few times. It's pretty much 1" high at 200 yds and puts you -2" at 250 and -5 to -6" at 300 yds.

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250 yard zero on my .300 Weatherby hurling 168 TTSX at 3,300 fps. No knobs, no fiddle f**king with scope. Aim, shoot.


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I have as many zeros as loads. As for myself, each of my rifles is tasked with the job I ask it to do - I’m not a broad brush painter with cartridges & enjoy each one for what they offer - or don’t.

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Thanks for the replies - about what I expected, common for experienced hunters who appreciate simplicity & speed in the field. Frustrating for the “you must twist knobs or it doesn’t count” crowd.

I understand woods hunters who never see 200 yard shots don’t see the benefit & the other extreme who want 900 yard shot capable dialing don’t see any advantage to speed Of getting on target.

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Originally Posted by specneeds
Thanks for the replies - about what I expected, common for experienced hunters who appreciate simplicity & speed in the field. Frustrating for the “you must twist knobs or it doesn’t count” crowd.

I understand woods hunters who never see 200 yard shots don’t see the benefit & the other extreme who want 900 yard shot capable dialing don’t see any advantage to speed Of getting on target.
Not exactly. It's possible to use a PBR approach and dial for anything further.

Some of the guys are saying you can simply zero at 100, slip the turrets, and then dial to 225 and leave it there while hunting. Dial again for longer shots, if needed.

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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Not exactly. It's possible to use a PBR approach and dial for anything further.

Some of the guys are saying you can simply zero at 100, slip the turrets, and then dial to 225 and leave it there while hunting. Dial again for longer shots, if needed.


I don’t know how may times it needs to be explained, but that’s the way to do it.

To put it as nicely as possible, Most here have no idea how their equipment functions

😁


Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
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Originally Posted by rcamuglia
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Not exactly. It's possible to use a PBR approach and dial for anything further.

Some of the guys are saying you can simply zero at 100, slip the turrets, and then dial to 225 and leave it there while hunting. Dial again for longer shots, if needed.


I don’t know how may times it needs to be explained, but that’s the way to do it.

To put it as nicely as possible, Most here have no idea how their equipment functions

😁
And just imagine if you hunt with scope that doesn't have knobs and just a crosshair, then MPBR is where its at, it doesn't get any simpler than that.


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Your assumption that hunters are carrying a scope with dials is exactly what I’m referring to in my response. I never take an exposed turret scope big game hunting. Too exposed to brush & crap

The majority of hunters will never dial a scope to shoot big game. If they shoot farther than 300 yards it’s a once in a lifetime shot. They have 3-9 set & forget scopes & kill stuff every year.

I can use simple holdover & a duplex at 500 yards on an elk or deer chest with any of my big game rifles- as far as I need & practice is all it takes. My current set-up is a Zeiss HD5 3-15x50 with a Z800 reticle on a 300 Weatherby with 180 grain TTSX - no dialing necessary the hash marks are perfect to 800 yards. Adjust for wind & shoot is as fast as it gets.

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Originally Posted by rcamuglia
To put it as nicely as possible, Most here have no idea how their equipment functions

😁


Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
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Originally Posted by johnn
Originally Posted by rcamuglia
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Not exactly. It's possible to use a PBR approach and dial for anything further.

Some of the guys are saying you can simply zero at 100, slip the turrets, and then dial to 225 and leave it there while hunting. Dial again for longer shots, if needed.


I don’t know how may times it needs to be explained, but that’s the way to do it.

To put it as nicely as possible, Most here have no idea how their equipment functions

😁
And just imagine if you hunt with scope that doesn't have knobs and just a crosshair, then MPBR is where its at, it doesn't get any simpler than that.

Yeah, it gets a lot simpler:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

There's no guessing when you use a good reticle with reference points. Like rcamuglia said, there are a lot of guys that don't know how to use their equipment. I see it all the time. There is beauty in keeping schidt simple. MPBR went the way of the dodo bird. A simple experiment out to even a measly 400 yards would prove a lot of guys using that method can't keep their bullets in the kill zone of a deer more than 60% of the time. Resulting in a lot of wounded animals or missed shots. You guys have no reference points, just wild azzed hold over/guesses..


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

BSA MAGA
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